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Where to Buy “Ethical” Coffee in China? 在中国哪里可以买到“道德”咖啡?

绿色倡议 绿色倡议 2022-04-13


From our last two articles we have seen that coffee is not only one of the most traded commodities in the world, but the growth in coffee consumption over the last two decades has been enormous.


在写作最近的两篇咖啡文章的过程中,我们观察到,咖啡不仅是世界上交易量最大的贸易品之一,而且在过去20年里,咖啡消费的增长也是相当惊人的。


In China, consumption has steadily grown and is only bound to grow further. We have seen that it is not easy to shun the coffee-habit, so we have to accept that coffee consumption is here to stay. What we can do, though, is consume consciously. Conscious consumption means we consume ethically sourced coffee from growers and sellers who have produced it with respect to the environment, while paying a fair wage to those who produce it. 


在中国,咖啡的消费趋势也一直在稳步增长,并且势头不歇。要人们少喝咖啡几乎是不可能的,喝咖啡的习惯只会保持甚至渗透到更广阔的消费群体。所以,要改变咖啡行业的道德困境,我们只能从消费习惯入手,鼓励有意识地消费。有意识的消费是指我们从咖啡种植者和销售者那里购买生产及贸易环节合乎道德、有社会责任感的咖啡,在生产及流通过程中考虑对自然环境的影响,并保证生产者获得公平的劳动报酬。


[Read: “What is the real cost of our coffee?”]

(阅读:“什么是一杯咖啡的这正价值?”)


To help you consume consciously we have created a list of organizations and businesses in China selling responsible, ethically-sourced coffee. Here’s that list.


为了帮助您有意识地消费,我们在创建了一份可以在中国购买的,有社会责任感、采购合乎道德的咖啡品牌和产品,以下是这个列表。


[Note: If you know other organizations that are worth adding to this list please reach out to us so we can continue to enrich this list for everyone to benefit from.

注: 如果您知道其他值得添加到此列表中的产品和品牌,请联系我们,以便我们继续充实此列表,让每位读者都从中受益。]


But first, a brief history of coffee in China.

但首先,我们来了解一下咖啡在中国的简史。




China’s Coffee History 中国咖啡


Although in China coffee has often been considered as something exotic, to many people’s surprise it has existed in the country since 1892. Yunnan and Hainan which are located between latitude 15 degree to Tropic of Cancer turn out to be great places to grow coffee beans and give their coffee a unique flavor.


大部分人认为咖啡之于中国是舶来品,但事实上中国咖啡种植的历史能追溯到1892年。位于北纬15度到北回归线的云南和海南有着得天独厚的种植咖啡豆的自然环境,在这里生长的咖啡有其独特的风味。




As of 2017, export volume of coffee from China has reached 105 million kilograms already, of which 58% comes from Yunnan. In fact, in 2012, Starbucks opened a Farmer Support Center in Yunnan that aims to provide resources and expertise to promote responsible coffee-growing practices and processing methods.


2017年中国咖啡出口量已经达到一亿五百万公斤,其中58%的出口量来自云南省。2012年星巴克咖啡公司亚洲首个咖啡种植者支持中心正式在云南普洱落成并投入运营。该支持中心致力于减少在咖啡种植过程中对当地环境造成的不良影响,同时进一步提高当地农民及其家庭的生活质量。


We found a beautifully made documentary about coffee growing in Yunnan, called “Behind a Coffee Bean”. You can watch this short-film (8-min) here or by scanning the QR code below.


在这里向大家推荐一部讲述云南咖啡的迷你纪录片《Behind a Coffee Bean》,该片镜头细腻,画面优美,扫描以下二维码可观看。





So How and Where to Buy Responsible Coffee in China?

那么在中国如何以及在哪里买到有社会责任感的咖啡产品呢?


So what do I, as a consumer in China, buy to support these initiatives?

作为一名在中国的消费者,我应该怎样消费来支持这些举措呢?


Apart from Gorilla’s coffee that you can buy from Wei Ya’s live-stream, there are a couple of other great ethically / directly sourced coffee products and brands that we have found from our research, that we would like to recommend. Please note, we haven’t ourselves directly purchased or tried any of these products, but all the information comes from highly reliable sources.


除了薇娅在她的直播间中介绍的Gorilla咖啡外,我们还找到了一些在生产过程中内化社会责任感或者从咖农手中源头直采的咖啡产品和品牌。请注意,我们并没有直接购买或尝试过这些产品,但所有的信息都来自相对可靠的来源。



01

Hani Coffee 哈美尼咖啡



Hani Coffee Co. has established its operation in Yunan since 2014. Within 5 years, the brand has expanded to not only retail channels but also food service, bringing Yunnan grown coffee beans to consumers in China as well as North America. The reason we are listing the brand here is of course not to celebrate its commercial success, but advocate the values that it has been following all these years: sustainable growing, responsible sourcing and mindful consuming. It is a cooperation between:


哈美尼咖啡公司自2014年开始在云南开展运营。5年的时间里,该品牌不仅拓展了零售渠道,还拓展了餐饮服务渠道,将云南咖啡豆带给了中国和北美的消费者。我们在这里列出这个品牌的原因当然不是为了庆祝它的商业成功,而因为它多年来一直遵循的价值观: 可持续种植、兼顾社会责任的采购和有意识的消费。这个品牌的成型基于与以下两个机构的合作:


  1. The Yunnan Coffee Traders, a supplier that pulls Yunnan coffee farmers together with much emphasizes on sustainable growing and raising social conditions for the farmers and brings Yunnan coffee to the world. 

    云南咖啡之路贸易有限公司,把云南咖农组织在一起,强调可持续发展,提高农民的生活条件,把云南咖啡带给世界消费者。


  2. Mountain Coffee roastery, roasting and retail experience for over 10 years, with a vision to see people grow and learn.

    西双版纳山寨咖啡饮食服务有限公司,有超过十年的咖啡烘培和零售历史,专注于咖啡人才的培养与成长。

(Scan the QR code to visit Hani Coffee's WeChat Shop 扫描以上二维码,进入哈美尼官方微店)




02

Torch Coffee 炬点咖啡


Torch Coffee Company is located in Pu’er, Yunan. What Marty Pollack, its founder, does different is that apart from producing great quality and locally sourced coffee, he also founded Torch Coffee Lab Yunnan that offers coffee education like SCI (Sustainable Coffee Institute), SCA (Specialty Coffee Association) and CQI (Coffee Quality Institute) qualification courses.


炬点咖啡公司坐落在云南普洱。该公司创始人Marty Pollack的不同之处在于,除了生产高质量的本地咖啡外,他还创建了云南炬点咖啡实验室,提供SCI(可持续咖啡协会)、SCA(专业咖啡协会)和CQI(咖啡质量协会)等咖啡教育课程。


In Marty’s own words, “I hope through working with both retail side coffee professionals and Farmers, we can make a change in the way coffee is traded around the world.”


Marty自己的话说,“我希望通过与咖啡零售专业人士和农民的合作,改变咖啡在世界各地交易的方式。”



Go to Torch’s WeChat shop and have a look at the offers they have. If you happen to have the chance to travel to Pu’er, you will do well to pay a visit to Torch’s lovely Café at Gong Yuan 1 Hao, Building 108 Suite 138-139, Pu’er city.



(Scan the QR code to visit Torch Coffee's WeChat Shop 扫描以上二维码,进入炬点咖啡官方微店

如果你碰巧有机会去普洱旅游,不妨去拜访一下位于普洱市巩园一号楼108套138-139的炬点咖啡馆。




03

Arabica Roasters 阿罗科咖啡



Arabica Roasters Company is a Wholly Foreign Owned Venture based in Beijing with 2 subsidiaries, one each in Shanghai and Hong Kong. Since its founding, it has been sharing the value of sustainable farming, fair price to growers and transparent trade chain. The company pays close attention to environmental matters in each steps of coffee producing, for instance converting their factory from using gas to using electricity to roast the coffee.


阿罗科咖啡是一家外资独资企业,总部设在北京,在上海和香港各有办事处。自成立以来,它一直在分享可持续农业、公平价格和透明贸易链的价值观。公司在咖啡生产的每一个环节都非常关注环境问题,例如,他们把工厂的烘培工艺从使用煤气改为使用电力。



The Jane Goodall Fair Trade Signature Blend (500g) you are seeing, 10% of the revenue from the sales is donated to The Jane Goodall Institute China to promote environmental protection in China.


你们看到的是Jane Goodall公平贸易签名混合咖啡(500克),这个咖啡价格的10%会捐赠给珍·古道尔中国研究所,以促进中国的环境保护事业。


(Scan the QR code to visit Arabica Roasters' WeChat Shop 扫描以上二维码,进入阿罗科咖啡官方微店

Follow the official WeChat account of Arabica Roasters and join their upcoming events. 


关注他们的微信公众号,参与他们的线下活动吧!




04

Manlao River Coffee 曼老江咖啡

Manlao River Coffee originated from a farming project in Pu’er, Yunnan, that aimed to help local coffee farmers come out of poverty and make their farming sustainable. The project touched over 3,000 farmers and later developed into the current brand.


曼老江咖啡起源于一个帮助云南普洱咖农走出贫困,持续种植的项目,该项目吸引了3000多名农民,后来发展成为目前的品牌。


In 2018, the New York Times reported about Manlao River Coffee as “a full-bodied result that had pleasing bitter chocolate notes”.


2018年,《纽约时报》曾报道曼老江咖啡“口感浓郁,带有令人愉悦的苦巧克力风味”。



"I myself made a purchase of this product and had it delivered to my work. Out of all their product varieties, this one best suited my office ‘facility’. A cup of hot water, and I have a nice cup of coffee to enjoy!"


“我自己购买了这个产品,并在工作的时候使用。在他们所有的产品中,这一款最适合办公室使用(因为他是挂耳咖啡)。只要一杯热水,我就有一杯好喝的咖啡。”


(Scan the QR code to visit Manlao River's WeChat Shop 扫描以上二维码,进入曼老江咖啡官方微店




Imported Coffee Brands Sold in China – Ethical Sourced or Fairtrade Certified

有道德责任或者公平采购的进口咖啡品牌


We understand that many consumers are looking for more choices when it comes to purchasing their coffee. We have done further research and come up with a couple of imported ethical coffee brands selling through online channels. Purchase these since the links are not being posted since they change frequently, and often times, the authenticity of the product may be doubtful.


我们知道,许多消费者在购买咖啡时希望有更多的选择。我们做了进一步的调查,找到了一些通过网上渠道销售的有道德责任或者公平采购的进口咖啡品牌。因为目前这些渠道还不是官方直营,而我们无从验证这些渠道的可靠性,所以在这里只做品牌介绍,没有购买链接。


However, if you come across trusted, verified sources for the below you could consider giving them a try.


如果您找到您认为可靠的购买渠道,不妨试试这些品牌。



01

Gorilla Coffee 大猩猩咖啡

https://gorillascoffee.com/



The brand comes from Rwanda Farmers Coffee Company (RFCC), a large-scale coffee roasting and packaging facility, that claims to be working with thousands of Rwandan farmers to help them move up out of poverty through their own production. All green bean come from farmers’ cooperatives, and all their coops are fairtrade certified, will all green beans fully traceable back to the farmers.


该品牌来自卢旺达农民咖啡公司(RFCC),这是一家大型咖啡烘焙和包装机构,该公司与数千名卢旺达农民合作,帮助他们通过自己的生产摆脱贫困。所有生豆都来自农民合作社,持有公平贸易认证,生豆可追溯到种植的农民。

 

02

Mount Hagen

https://www.mounthagen.de/en

German brand, coffee from Papua New Guinea 德国品牌,巴布亚新几内亚咖啡



World’s first organic coffee produced in 1990. Today almost 100% of their organic fair trade Arabicas are imported from Papua New Guinea.Mount Hagen is 100% organic certified by EcoCert in accordance with the organic standards of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.


1990年生产的世界上第一种有机咖啡。今天,他们的有机公平贸易阿拉比卡几乎100%是从巴布亚新几内亚进口的。山哈根是通过EcoCert认证的100%有机产品,符合美国农业部的有机标准。

 



Conclusion 总结


It has taken us quite some time to gather these brands and products that we have been able to verify to be ethically produced, organic or direct sourced.


我们花了很长时间才收集到这些品牌和产品,并且通过我们现有的资源能够验证他们确实在实践着我们推崇的价值导向:生产环节的社会道义,有机种植或者源头直采。


The important fact to note, though, is that for a country where coffee consumption is steeply and steadily on the rise, there were barely 4 locally-sourced, and a handful of imported, ethical coffee products/brands available to the consumer. 


这更需要引起我们的注意:对于一个咖啡消费急剧且稳步上升的国家来说,可供消费者购买的并且实践这些价值导向的本土咖啡产品和品牌寥寥无几。


So the next time you buy your coffee you may definitely want to ask yourself, “where is this coffee coming from?”

所以下次你买咖啡的时候,你一定要问问自己,“这杯咖啡是从哪里来的?”


Our friend Maarten Hol, who is running Hani Coffee Co. and has helped us immensely in this research says,

我们的朋友Maarten Hol经营着哈美尼咖啡公司,在这项研究中给予了我们极大的帮助,他说

 “This simply sums up the state of the industry. The coffee industry is perhaps worse-off than the cocoa industry. More awareness is needed for these problems. And more communication on how to turn these challenges into opportunities, through education, and support for local communities and ethical brands.”
“这恰恰体现了这个行业的现状。咖啡产业可能比可可产业更糟。我们需要对这些问题有更多的认识,对于如何通过教育以及支持本土社区和品牌将这些挑战转化为机遇需要有更多的交流。”


On our end, we have come to understand that coffee producers that adopt ethical and organic goals in China often find it “laborious to obtain, expensive to maintain”.


我们也了解到,在中国,实践道德和有机生产的咖啡品牌商常常发现“开始很繁琐,维系很昂贵”。


We hope the market can take a turn for the better, in the right direction, by having more local, ethical coffee in the future. And we, the consumers, have the real power to take the market to that direction by asking for, and making better product choices.


我们希望市场能朝着正确的方向转好,将来能有更多的本土的、道德生产的咖啡。而我们,消费者,我们有真正的力量,通过更好的做出产品选择,把市场引向那个方向。


Buy consciously, consume responsibly. Appreciate every sip.

有意识地购买,负责任地消费。尊重每一口咖啡。






This article was researched and written by Green Initiatives' volunteer writer, Lin Ye, and Chinese translations were done by volunteer translator, Eileen Wu, and wechat editing was done by Erin Zhang. Thank you to all other people who chatted with us in the course of the article, and who sent us various useful resources to create this article.



This will be a work in progress - please share with us other ethical, sustainable, organic or direct-trade coffe brands you may have come across by sending an email to info@greeninitiatives.cn or wechat: greenimpact








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